Where To Eat Breakfast In Rome, Italy: Tips For Enjoying Breakfast In The Eternal City

In Rome, Coffee and a Pastry Is Anything but Boring

By Robert Schrader | Published on September 12, 2023

When you think of Italy, your mind may go to images of pasta piled high on a plate, rich cheeses, flowing wine and decadent desserts. Breakfast foods, on the other hand, may be a bit harder to imagine. Why is this? Well, in Italy, breakfast is not necessarily the most important meal of the day. As I found when searching for breakfast in Rome, the morning hours are all about espresso and getting where you need to go in a hurry.

The Truth About Breakfast In Italy

I'll never forget my first morning in Rome. Having booked a hotel without breakfast included, I took to the cobbled streets near the Piazza del Popolo on the hunt for a place to get my morning meal. "We have espresso here," the man at the first one I passed told me, "but no food." I thanked him — in Italian, I'm proud to say — but didn't think to ask him in any language where I might find a place serving food.

I should've. As I soon learned, breakfast (at least in the sense that Americans, Canadians and Brits think of breakfast) isn't really a thing in Rome — or most of the rest of Italy. Most Italians simply take a shot of espresso, often in their own homes, and more often with a cigarette alongside it than anything to eat. If they do consume a solid, it tends to be a pastry of some kind, although that's secondary to the coffee.

If you aren't a local, your search for what to eat for breakfast in Rome will likely end in one of the standing-room-only espresso bars where Italians who don't enjoy "breakfast" at home start their days on the way to work. This is a fascinating cultural experience, obviously. Even though I've now been to Italy many times over more than a decade, I still find it intimidating even to get noticed amid the crowds, and not just because my Italian has barely improved.

Now, back on that first day so long ago, I did eventually end up finding a "proper" breakfast restaurant — I found several, in fact. I sat down and stuffed myself, al fresco no less, and all of Rome could see me eating in a way that none of them would dare to do so early in the morning. And I didn't care! I'll get back to this line of thinking in a moment, but for now, let's talk about how to start your day in an authentically Italian way.


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Coffee: Shot Or No Shot?

The good news? Over the years, options for breakfast in Rome, Italy, have greatly expanded — and I'm not just talking about the number or quality of proper breakfast eateries. Rather, you don't necessarily have to enter old-school espresso bars to get a coffee, even though many modern travelers will for the unique experience. While Starbucks are still relatively rare in Italy, more casual cafes have popped up all over, including in Rome, which gives you more options. So, where do you eat breakfast in Rome when you're visiting?

Well, you've always had options, in a way. While most customers in standing-room espresso bars simply order shots of espresso, there was never anything technically preventing someone from ordering a caffe americano, latte or cappucino. It just would've been socially awkward, since part of the trade-off for the crowded standing cafe is that patrons are supposed to go as quickly as they came.

With the dawn of newer cafes that actually have seats — and space — there's less pressure to leave, even if you do end up ordering an espresso and taking it as a shot. Some of these cafes even have plugs and WiFi — practically an invitation to bring your laptop and get some work done. Which, you might as well do if you're up in the morning in Rome, a city that, I'll be honest, is not necessarily famous for early risers.

Of course, no matter where you choose to have your coffee when in Rome, most shops of any kind will have an array of pastries to choose from for a quick breakfast.

At the end of the day, tourists in Rome are under no obligation to "do as the Romans do," in spite of how enduring that phrase has proven.

What To Eat For Breakfast In Rome

For many travelers, when they think of pastries in Europe, they think of France and the various croissants you can get there. What they (and you) might not realize is that Italy is also a heavyweight when it comes to sweet breads best enjoyed in the morning. In fact, depending on which standing espresso bar or sit-down coffee shop you wander into during your trip to Rome, you might be surprised at the array available.

Indeed, once you choose where to eat breakfast in Rome, you face the much trickier decision of what to eat for breakfast in Rome. One of my favorite things to eat for breakfast when I'm in Rome are canoli (or singular canolo — don't order "un canoli" and expose yourself as an amateur), which are tubular pastry shells filled with sweetened cream or cheese. Some of these are simple and without adornment, while others are flavored with pistachio, hazelnut or even chocolate.

Another of my favorite Italian pastries is chiacchiere, which Romans sometimes refer to as frappe. It's a simple dessert made with fried, puffed-up pastry and sprinkled with powdered sugar. I've always found this resembles a ravioli, even though it's simply filled with air pockets. It's not extremely common, however, so don't feel shocked or disapppointed if the cafe you choose doesn't have it.

Another option if you're not in the mood for canoli is the maritozzo, which — in addition to being delicious — happens to be from Rome. It's simple: a rich brioche bun split in half and filled with sweet whipped cream. Its name also has a cute back story, having come from the Italian word for "husband." In the past, men would hide engagement rings in these popular pastries, with the hopes the woman they gave them to would say "si!"

It's Ok To Buck Breakfast Traditions

Want to honor Roman traditions, but also want to start your day with something more substantial than carbs and caffeine? If you're cruising to or from Italy and have a few days before you sail, choose a hotel whose rate includes breakfast. These will often include the option for eggs, cereal and toast and may even include pancakes, omelettes and even more elaborate offerings, depending on where you stay.

Another strategy is to simply do your research. Use your favorite maps application to search for restaurants near your hotel or Airbnb that have morning hours, and look at their menus to see if they serve actual meals at breakfast. I learned the hard way that if you leave a proper breakfast in Rome to chance, you may have to walk literally for an hour before you find a place where you can enjoy one.

On the other hand, the best breakfast in Rome on a vacation may be one you prepare yourself. If you stay in a rental apartment or in a hotel room with a kitchenette, consider visiting a supermarket such as Carrefour in the evening to buy whatever you think you might want to eat in the morning. This is a particularly attractive option if the place you're staying has a terrace — and especially if you're near landmarks such as the Trevi Fountain, the Colosseum or the Spanish Steps.

At the end of the day, tourists in Rome are under no obligation to "do as the Romans do," in spite of how enduring that phrase has proven. On the other hand, it could be that you choose Roman lunch and dinner options and simply veer away from convention during the morning. Or some mornings. Who's to say you can't down a shot of espresso on Friday morning, but take your time with a more voluptuous plate of grub on Saturday or Sunday?

Eternal City Eats Await

No matter how you end up approaching breakfast in Rome, you'll look back on it fondly — much like the rest of your time here because it's such an interesting cultural experience. My advice? Pack a granola bar and embrace the fast-paced mornings that make Italy such a special place.

Written By
ROBERT SCHRADER

Robert Schrader is a writer, photographer and one of the web's original travel bloggers. In 2009 he launched his blog  Leave Your Daily Hell, which has taken him to nearly 100 countries, and has since spun off niche sites focused on Japan, Thailand, Taiwan and Italy. Robert seeks to inform, inspire, entertain and empower travelers through his work, which has been featured in in-flight magazines and digital media outlets around the world. He's excited about travel's post-pandemic rebirth, and in particular the cruise industry's comeback!

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