Our Family Alaska Cruise

 

By Candyce H. Stapen | Published on February 5 2024

On our family Alaska cruise, we stood on the deck staring in amazement at the sheer size of Hubbard Glacier — a cool icy blue in the sunlight — which stretched for miles and was backed by gloriously snowcapped mountain peaks. After dreaming of this moment for months, cruising past this dazzling sight on our first full day onboard Royal Caribbean's Radiance of the Seas® reinforced that our family Alaska cruise was the best choice for us.

Not only were my husband and I awestruck by Alaska's natural wonders, but so were Alissa, our teen daughter, and Matt, our college-age son. We bonded over dog sledding, flightseeing and whale spotting and enjoyed discussing the day's events over dinner every night. In my experience, engaging teenagers on a family vacation is much more complicated than pleasing younger kids, and we were thrilled that this vacation succeeded in holding their interest each day and producing lively family conversations each evening.

The Train To Talkeetna

We set up our trip so that we'd have a cruise tour with a relaxing rail journey before our family Alaska cruise. In Anchorage, we boarded Alaska's famous glass-domed sightseeing train, the Wilderness Express. Through the large windows and the glass-domed ceiling, we watched Alaska's landscape roll by, including forests filled with spruce and hemlock, snowcapped mountains and small towns. We had lunch in the dining car and played gin rummy, a family favorite, after we ate.

We got off the train at Talkeetna, a funky little town filled with wooden storefronts and eateries. Located near Denali State Park, it is a gateway to flightseeing and fishing adventures. From the deck of the ridgetop Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge, about an hour from town, we savored views of the jagged slopes of the Alaskan Range. We dined on delicious grilled salmon and devoured blueberry tarts for dessert. And although clouds often envelop Denali's summit, the mist lifted one afternoon, revealing the majestic snow-capped peak of the mighty mountain.


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The View From Above

The best decision we made on this trip? Booking a flightseeing trip to Denali National Park and Preserve, which was one of the most memorable experiences of our Alaska vacation. In the language of native Koyukon Athabascans, "Denali" translates to "the great one." At 20,310 feet, Denali's Mount McKinley is the highest peak in North America and a must-see Alaska travel site that inspires awe.

We took advantage of Alaska's 17-plus hours of daylight to board the helicopter in the late afternoon from Talkeetna. Our 10,000-foot vantage point gave us a sense of Ruth Glacier's massive size — it's a seemingly endless stretch of blue ice slit with crevasses and laced with turquoise pools. When we were within two miles of Denali's summit, the clouds lifted and we saw Denali's peak pierce the sky. Returning over the park, we spotted grizzlies loping across the frozen turf.

Spying On Whales

We arrived early in Seward, the departure point for our Alaska cruise, so that we could experience more sights before we set sail. Exploring Kenai Fjords National Park — home to nearly 40 glaciers that are part of the 700 square miles of the Harding Icefield — in an expedition boat proved to be another highlight of our family vacation in Alaska. Just minutes after we left the dock, our naturalist guide pointed out otters floating, then rolling like logs, in the water. We sailed by spruce thickets, a sea lion colony sprawled on a rocky islet and a puffin rookery. When we heard "thar she blows," we ran to the port railing just in time to catch a glimpse of the bumpy head of a 40-foot humpback whale before he disappeared below the surface.

Floating slabs of ice dotted the sea as we cruised to about a half-mile of the glacier's terminus, a vantage point that gave us a sense of the massive formation that dwarfed our vessel. When the captain cut the engines, we listened. Soon, we heard cracks and a thunderous roar as the glacier calved huge chunks into the sea. It was another awe-inspiring moment on our Alaska travels.

On the way to the glacier, our warm hats and gloves were enough to keep us comfortable, but heading into the wind on the way back, we started to feel the chill. Most of the other passengers escaped to the windowed ship's interior, but we craved the fresh air so we huddled together on a bench, laughing as we wrapped ourselves like burritos in blankets we borrowed from the crew.

We got off the train at Talkeetna, a funky little town filled with wooden storefronts and eateries. Located near Denali State Park, it is a gateway to flightseeing and fishing adventures.

Taking In Glaciers And Huskies

We boarded our ship, the 2,466-passenger Radiance of the Seas®, and immediately sailed away. Early on in our sailing, a day of cruising to Hubbard Glacier gave us time to explore the ship.

Matt grabbed a deck lounge chair while Alissa walked the promenade with us before striking out alone to check out the teen lounge. When the ship drew near the colossal glacier, we met on deck to share the moment. A majestic sight, the glacier towered 350 feet above the water. But no teen or 20-something stares at a glacier for three hours, no matter how impressive. To remain in sight of the glistening blue behemoth and the ice-chunk-dotted sea, we convinced them to play shuffleboard with us. It has become a fun family cruise staple for us over the years, and the kids won again.

Later in the cruise, this family of dog lovers couldn't resist booking a dog-sledding shore excursion. After all, husky dog sledding is part of Alaska's heritage. The excursion starts with a helicopter ride above an emerald-green forest to the plateau of Mendenhall Glacier, one of Alaska's most noted sights. On a vast snow field, the huskies howled excitedly as our guide harnessed our team, explaining how lead dogs steer the sled and wheel dogs add muscle.

After the musher yelled "hike," the team took off, effortlessly falling into formation. We savored the soft sounds of the dogs' paws on the snow and the sun on our faces for about 20 minutes as we were pulled across the field. We could have spent the whole day gliding across the snow, but at the end of the ride we were treated to a visit with the husky puppies in the kennel. Before returning to the ship, we grabbed a seafood dinner in town — crab cakes and grilled shrimp — and picked up some souvenirs for friends back home.

The Gold Rush Route

Learning a region's history is important to us on a trip, and our family Alaska cruise was no exception. We boarded the White Pass and Yukon Route Railway, which first launched in 1898, in Skagway for the three-hour excursion.

From our train's window, we saw Alaskan sights we had only read about — the grueling terrain many gold rush prospectors had to conquer to seek riches in the Yukon Territory. En route to the White Pass Summit, the narrow-gauge train climbed 2,888 feet. Tuckered out from an evening of dancing in the teen lounge, our kids were happy to sit and listen. They found the narrated history informative and the scenery engaging, even if we had to poke them awake occasionally so they wouldn't miss a waterfall or a gorge.

Over a dinner of sockeye salmon and crab legs in town, we talked about the obsession that motivated so many people to carry supplies along the arduous trail. Many perished in the process. A ruggedly steep stretch, Dead Horse Gulch, took its name from the 3,000 pack horses that died when prospectors tried to cross the pass. At the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park in Skagway's six-block historic district, a display of the supplies — tools, grain, blankets and clothing — made the climb seem impossible.

It was a beautiful family dinner to end the day with, and we were grateful for the time together. One of our best family vacations, our family Alaska cruise gave us days filled with Alaskan adventures and dinners over which to compare notes and share the stories. Most of all, we were grateful for the time with our children and a moment to enjoy them before they moved on to more adult lives.

Written By
CANDYCE H. STAPEN

Candyce H. Stapen has served as a travel editor for USA TODAY and Frommers.com. She has also written for The Washington Post, Travel Weekly, Men's Journal and Washingtonian and is the author of more than two dozen books about family travel. Candyce lives in Washington, D.C. and travels with her family whenever she can.

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